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The other, Tristessa is a highly romanticized version of the life of a year-old Mexico City junkie puta goddess he met through Garner and of whom he was hopelessly enamored. I touched down early morning September 26 and caught a cab through the broken city. Those who take rooms at the Isabel are a mixed bag: busloads of Costa Ricans on a Mexico City shopping spree and Tabasco farmers in town for an Alcoholics Anonymous jamboree and a few Mennonites in overalls from Chihuahua who have come to the big city to sell their cheese, but most are low-rent European backpackers. Katherine Anne Porter arrived in on the invitation of Diego Rivera and stayed on for a decade, growing progressively disillusioned with Mexico. One morning soon after I moved in, Celia Cruz, the stooped camarista who made my bed for 23 years before retiring to become a vidente or clairvoyant, found Don Alonso, a Spanish traveling salesman who sold pens and pencils in the provinces, dead in his bed across the glass brick patio from Celia and I were the only mourners. Norma, who was six months pregnant, felt obligated to visit with the Virgin of Guadalupe, and we rode the bus to the Basilica out in La Villa, north of Mexico City. Actually, the last big earthquake 6. Death does not seem to register at the Isabel. But by the mids the Torre Latinoamericana, much like the mambo, had been eclipsed. Some critics suggest that he was a spy for the British Intelligence Service. Orizaba was torn down and rebuilt as condominiums several years ago, but its twin, , still stands and has taken on the aura of a Beat shrine. The death of Wilfred Ewert spawned anxieties among the remaining English writers in the neighborhood. Well, at least as far south as the Southern Terminal. I come from another country, The nation of the Beat. The natives seemed friendly, and street crime was petty and without violence. Then on Tuesday, September 19, at in the morning, the Monstruo was cruelly punched by an 8. John Ross knows where the bodies are buried. The shooting had died down and adventurous tourists took up residence in the cheap, elegant hotels on the surrounding blocks. Every day we walked out of the city until we were on country roads. The north is also the direction of the Dark Virgin who, as the myth dictates, revealed herself to the Indians on Tepeyac Hill in An absurd theme park and merry-go-round-like Basilica now occupy the site. Lawrence invited me to read with him. Jack rented a tiny adobe room up on the roof, the azotea, where he assembled the poems that became Mexico City Blues few are actually about Mexico City , dedicated to Allen Ginsberg, and wrote two novels, one in French and unpublished. The city is us and where we come from. Hipsters who had blazed this route before warned us that Mexico City taxistas would rob us blind. Printed in the United States of America. It was a lively period in the life of this neighborhood, here in the heart of the old city and the country that bears its name. The Centro attracted other young British writers. Paul Bowles, whose writings delve the darknesses of the human soul, was a frequent visitor to Mexico before moving on to Morocco. Indeed, over the years, I have become another piece of hotel furniture. But there was other trouble brewing. Upstairs, the secrets are under lock and key. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. We were my then-partner Norma, a Beat Queen seven years older than myself, and her daughter Dylan, named for the wild Welsh poet who had once bedded her mother. Room has grown considerably smaller since I moved in here a quarter of a century ago. All rights reserved. Nineteen sixty-nine was, in fact, the year the Beat Generation died alongside the railroad tracks in San Miguel de Allende when Neal Cassady, the driver who put the Beats On The Road, woozy from tequila and barbiturates, lay down on the frozen ground in the middle of February and never woke up. So I stocked up on White Hamburgers and we headed south. The alternative was the donkey carts that waited by the terminal to transport the sacks that farmers trundled in from the countryside to La Merced market just east of the National Palace. There is absolutely. In this trajectory, the bala suelta etc. Hand Jr. The poet Hart Crane committed suicide by jumping into the Gulf of Mexico from the steamship Orizaba on his way home to Manhattan after a failed homosexual encounter in Veracruz. In the past century, Ernesto P. During political seasons—a presidential election or a visit from the Zapatistas—North American radicals take up transient residencies. We disembarked near the heart of the city and collected our trunks full of stolen books and baby clothes and household goods. But such days are few in a city where the air quality is said to murder tens of thousands of inhabitants a year.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} In El Monstruo, Ross now does. I have considered buying an electric heater, but given the state of the wiring, even a small appliance could short-circuit this old hotel, so I make do with sweaters and long johns until the sun grows stronger and spring is upon us again. And Ross, a vestigial Wobbly. There is no room for new lovers now. Also living here are four tattered armchairs upholstered in brocade with carved, sturdy armrests that groan with age when one sits back on their arthritic springs, their legs as tottery as my own. To take back the space of the city is to recover for all of us a territory that transcribes our lives. Monolithic rascacielos skyscrapers stand stiff as tombstones on the Paseo de La Reforma, Lomas de Chapultepec, and high-end Polanco, comfortable districts in which the gente decente decent people consume daily what it takes to feed the Indian south of Mexico for a year. In , it took a whole day to get there from San Luis. The Monster was more self-contained back then—not every square inch of the surrounding Valley of Mexico had been staked out by the squatters. It is an essential process of our lives and our history. EL MONSTRUO 11 At night, we sucked up bowlfuls of rich, greasy birria and barbacoa in the market, and I inhabited the all-night farmacias where glittering vials of under-the-counter pharmaceuticals were sold over the counter 25 hours a day. Subcomandante Marcos, the quixotic Zapatista rebel mouthpiece, uses the term endearingly when he refers to the capital. Gregory Corso, my West Village homeboy, came along for the ride. While in residence at the Monte Carlo, Lawrence is said to have complained much about the plumbing. He was killed instantly. The Beats were not far behind. One reason Room is so drafty is the large French windows that open onto a cracked balcony. The legendary hipster drug smuggler Bryce Wilson ran a Beat hotel in Yelapa. The metaphor was contemplated as far back as Aztec mythology, when the city was just an island. The book, which ignited the Latin boom, was murky, but a mile up in the sky, the air was indeed clear. On a Saturday in the spring of , the Monstruo is bathed in ugly scuzz. Wilfred Ewert drags his suitcase from one haunted room to the next as Stephen Graham stalks him through the darkened hallways. Although he was a veteran of another war the drug war , William Burroughs, the scion of the St. I still see her lovely face in the large circular mirror. We hired one and rode into the very maw of this monstrous city with a burro as our guide. By , Burroughs was installed at Orizaba Street, a decaying apartment building in the increasingly seedy Colonia Roma Norte, where he had the notorious misfortune to blow his dear wife. From its base, the building narrows like a wedding cake in layers, tapering into the spiring sky where it is topped by a tall antenna that looks like it stepped right out of the old RKO logo. We wore huaraches. When I checked in a week after the great earthquake of , the hotel was deserted and there were no clues, a business card or a forgotten article of clothing or an empty pill bottle, to inform me who the last tenant had been. I do not know who lived in this room before me. Bravo to John Ross! The west is the direction of the New City. Guests mingle in the restaurant and the bar and the lobby, which has recently been redecorated in a style that blends a vaguely Moroccan motif with Don Quijote de la Mancha. Close by, the Alameda, a bouquet of mutant chlorophyll, is the only visible green space—the vast Chapultepec Park to the west has disappeared behind a curtain of particulate. There are no keyholes through which snoops can pry. Some burnt up upon arrival. No one wore tapabocas surgical masks as we see now on winter mornings when the thermal inversions press the industrial gases close to the earth and it is a chore just to breathe. Books, another hurdle, occupy the northwest corner of my cave, but in no particular order. Dozens of pilgrims crawled up the Calzada of the Mysteries on bloody knees, and Norma prayed to the Dark Madonna to protect the child growing in her womb, a plea the Guadalupana did not heed. The Beat goes on. The Beats caroused Garibaldi Plaza where the Mariachis and the prostitutes and the pickpockets mingle, and regularly got bombed at the old Club Bombay on Reforma Norte near Tlatelolco. We arrived on a crystalline November day, the deep sky a penetrating cobalt blue. ISBN 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1. I took off my huarache and shook it at the curious crowd that was gathering. In addition to the ropero, I share the space with a bureau of equal antiquity, a pair of writing desks strewn with the tools of my trade, and a dressing table where Irma Guadarrama used to sit to prepare for the day. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}El Monstruo is a defense of place and the history of that place. Books published by Nation Books are available at special discounts for bulk purchases in the United States by corporations, institutions, and other organizations. He had found limited success with several travel books on prerevolutionary Russia. As the tin-can bus bounced along the outlying avenues in the blue dawnlight, Mexico City looked positively ghostly through the dusty, cracked window. The revolutionary. Norma knew the world a little better than I did and drank to soften her sorrows.